Choquequirao to Machu Picchu : Days 4 - 5

Day 4 Pinchinuyoc to Maizal

We had breakfast

and bade farewell to Pinchinuyoc.

Pinchinuyoc terraces and the switchback to the river (zigzag lines on the left)

Steep ascent

From Pinchinuyoc, we descended the canyon to Rio Bianco. We crossed the river and climbed up again to our campsite at Maizal. Today's ascent was more difficult because of the steepness and the heat. It did not help that we had to climb from the river bed. Hence the sudden realisation: "Fact of climbing: What goes down, must go up and up and up. Then some more (URGH!)". 

It was soooooo hot and there was barely any shade from the trees. I had not been perspiring as much since I was training for my nationals when I was 18. Back then, I would perspire so much and the sun evaporate the perspiration so quickly that salt would be left on my arms. When we reached our camp, Buddy had to tell me there was salt on my singlet. Thanks Buddy! Funny enough, the salt lines resembled the waterfall across the valley. Don't you think so?

L: Salt lines on singlet. R: Waterfall across the valley

Day 5 Maizal to Yanama

We finally saw the glaciers in front of our camp in the crisp morning air and clear sky.

View from camp

From our camp at 3000m, we were to ascend to the second highest point of our trek, Abra San Juan (4150m). There were many pretty flowers and butterflies along the way. The butterflies were so busy that this was also the first time I could feel the strong flutter of their wings (don't they normally just float around?). 

Humming bird

We also walked passed many caves, entrances to the 'Minas Victoria', silver mines in the colonial time.

Next, we came to an original Inca trek. This was part of the extensive 40,000km network built by the Incas that connect Cuzco (Peru) to the Quito (Ecuador) in the North, Santiago (Chile) in the South and Mendoza (Argentina) in the East.

The Inca trek led us to Abra San Juan, where chef Astario miraculously produced lunch:

I had to hang on to my chair in case I lost my balance or got blown away
Photo credit: José

By the time I arrived at the pass, the clouds were down.

Astario tried to blow the clouds away but I could only manage to see sections of the glacier tops at any one time. The low clouds also kept the condors away. I pleaded and willed the sky to clear but waited in vain.

Photo credit: José

Soon, we had to  make our way down to Yanama, home to Astario and muleteers Gunda and Johan.

Approaching Yanama

We saw domestic animals such as pigs: 

and guinea pigs:

It was the local primary school's anniversary and the students, including the children of the villager whose backyard we camped in, made paper lanterns and took part in a parade around the village at night. After dinner, we went to the school to join the villagers in their celebrations, where the students performed.