Saturday, 26 January 2013

Antarctica : PPP



Penguin Power Prevails (PPP)

Penguins are birds that swim and dive instead of fly. Their wings, which have evolved to become paddle-like flippers, are used in the same way in water as other birds use theirs to fly - they propel themselves through the water like torpedoes by flapping their wings.
I think penguins can fly

While other birds have light, paper thin or hollow bones filled with air chambers that allow them to fly with less weight, penguins have dense bones that allow them to dive easily. They also have webbed feet for steering in water. 



Penguins are black and white for a reason - the colours provide an effective camouflage through countershading. When seen from below, the penguins' white belly merge with the bright water surface while seen from above, the black backs merge with the dark ocean depths, thereby allowing them to hide from predators such as leopard seals and orcas. 



Penguins porpoise - they leap out of water to take a quick breath and quickly dive into the water again. Both porpoising and sudden changes of direction when swimming tend to take predators by surprise, allowing penguins to sometimes escape from their jaws.

Video: Penguins porpoising
The footsteps left by penguins as they porpoise
One of my favourite pictures of a gentoo porpoising
Photo credit: Naz

On land, penguins walk upright, skip, hop and trip over themselves. They remind me of myself. When I walk on snow, I take baby steps, often sinking, losing balance and squealing. Then standing up, I would brush off snow from my pants and look around to see if anyone saw how clumsy I have been.


Video: How I walk on snow

Penguins also toboggan to save energy. They use their flippers and feet to slide their bodies along the ice.

On your belly, get set, GO!
Besides blubber, adult penguins have thick, overlapping feathers that are nearly impenetrable by wind or water. The feathers also trap air to insulate the bodies. Penguins have preen glands at the bottom of their tails that secrete oil used for waterproofing the feathers. They can contort their bodies in amazing ways so as to preen themselves - arranging their feathers to trap air and spreading oil over their feathers:
Preening
Although it is very cold in Antarctica, penguins can overheat. In such circumstances, they ruffle their feathers to break up the layer of insulating air under the feathers. They also hold their flippers up, sometimes flapping, to release heat.
The underside of the flippers are very pink when the penguins are hot
Antarctic penguins nest in colonies on grounds above the snow. The males would bring back stones so as to build nests above the ground. They often make a big display when they add a stone on the nests. Sometimes, they are really naughty and steal from their neighbours. Other times, a female will move about on its nest, accidentally pushing some stones down and benefiting their neighbours with nests below them.
Setting up nests above snow

Video: Steal from thy neighbour
Too greedy - trying to get a rock
which is too big for its beak

When breeding and raising the young, the penguins have to be wary of skuas or snowy sheathbills that stalk in the background. Both feed off penguins and shags as predators, scavengers and thieves. During the penguins' breeding seasons, skuas and snowy sheathbills steal eggs and chicks. Sometimes, the snowy sheathbills would disrupt penguins which are feeding the young, causing them to spill the food on the ground and providing the snowy sheathbills the opportunities to scavenge on the food.
A harmless looking snowy sheathbill strolls by
Skua
Burp
On my Antarctica trip, we managed to see 4 of the 5 Antarctic penguin species (the Emperor penguins live too far south)
Top L: Macaroni R: Adélie
Bottom L: Chinstrap R: Gentoo 
All staff said they have never ever met anyone who does not like penguins. I am not surprised. The penguins we saw were sooooooooo ADORABLE and were such a laugh (even though they were very serious) that I really wanted to touch one or smuggle one home in my daypack.


Adélie penguin

Adélies with chicks
The Adélie penguins average 58cm and weigh 5kg. They often travel up to 100km to feed and can dive up to 170m or for 6 minutes. They favour sea ice when not breeding.

We saw some Adélie penguin chicks on Petermann Island. The Adélies can lay 2 eggs and incubate for 35 days. The chicks were rather big and fat and had their heads tucked against their parents. At this stage, the chicks have down feathers which do not allow them to go to the seas and look very much like fur balls.



Chinstrap penguin


The Chinstrap penguins are similar in size as the Adélies but weigh less at 3.8kg and dive up to 120m. They like to raise their heads in the air to trumpet their territorial claims and this action is often infectious, causing a racket: 

Video: A noisy Chinstrap colony at Half Moon Island

We saw a few chinstraps every now and then along the way. I was very happy to finally see a colony during our last landing at Half Moon Island. I find them the cutest among the 4 types of penguins. We were fortunate to see some newborns and do I even have to describe how cute they were?
2 newborns
We have a baby!
Chinstrap penguins mating


Gentoo penguin

Among the 4 species of penguins, the Gentoos can dive the deepest at 225m and feed closest to shore. 
Gentoos at Chilean's Gonzalez Videla Base

When they are 3 weeks old, the chicks of the Gentoos are big enough to fend for themselves. They demand such large quantity of food that instead of 1 parent babysitting the chicks, both parents must forage at the same time. The Gentoos are also unusual in that the chicks return to their nesting colony to be fed by their parents for about 3 weeks after fledging.
I have an egg
Leucistic Gentoo
Photo credit: Aaron


Of all the penguins, we saw the Gentoos most often and they were also the most friendly when we were out kayaking. 



On my return trip from Waterboat Point, I also manage to catch sight of the rare leucistic Gentoo going out to sea. Albinism is a genetic mutation that prevents the production of melanin (black pigment) in the body. Leucism, on the other hand, is a genetic mutation that prevents melanin from being deposited normally on feathers, resulting in an exceptional pale coat. (Source: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/AboutBirdsand

Feeding/Albinism_Leucism.htm) 










Macaroni penguin

Although there are 11.8 million breeding pairs in the world, less than 10,000 Macaroni penguins breed in Antarctica. The Macaronis lay 2 eggs but the first egg has very little chance to hatch. Firstly, the first egg is 40% smaller than the second. Secondly, incubation does not begin until the second egg has been laid, by which time the embryo of the first egg would be very cold or dead. 
Sleepy head
We saw only 1 Macaroni penguin on our last landing at Half Moon Island. The pasta penguin has been living alone within a Chinstrap colony for the past years. Although the Chinstraps were very noisy, the Macaroni managed to sleep through the din, with its beak tucked between its wing and body. It would raise its head for 2 seconds and then continued to nap again. It was so difficult to catch a glimpse of the Macaroni's face!

Penguin Power Prevails!





Sources: 
Frank S. Todd
Antarctica cruising guide by Peter Carey and Craig Franklin









Thursday, 24 January 2013

Antarctica : Quest for the Antarctic Circle


Antarctica

Antarctica - the godforsaken wintery continent that few have set foot upon while others died trying to get there. 180 million years ago, Antarctica, together with South America, Africa, Australia and New Zealand, used to be part of a continent called Gondwana. Over the years, the land masses split and Antarctica very slowly drifted from somewhere near the equator to its current location on/near the South Pole. Even in summer, Antarctica is surrounded by freshwater ice (made up of snow that has piled up and compresses) and sea ice (where the sea freezes).  (Source: Antarctica cruising guide by Peter Carey and Craig Franklin)
Ice cliff
Photo credit: Sally

Iceberg

Quest for the Antarctic Circle

Like most, I travelled to Antarctica by sea. My cruise to Antarctica, on M/S Expedition, was the second segment I have booked after my Kilimanjaro trek (and I booked both before I have reserved my rtw air tickets). Apparently, I was rather late in making the reservation - both the triple and quadruple sharing rooms were full when I first spotted this cruise (I later found out that many had booked their spots in 2011). By some stroke of luck, somebody cancelled her reservation and I got the last triple sharing slot.

From Ushuaia (Argentina), we made our way south, passing the notorious Drake Passage, which has some of the roughest seas in the world with 10m swells and strong winds.
Source: M/S Expedition
We were told we have had it easy - the Drake Passage, while choppy, was only a Grade 1 in terms of swell. Another passenger told us about a Grade 8 swell when cooking were banned and only sandwiches were served (that is, if one even had any appetite). Antarctica cruising guide named "seasick bags" and "the ceiling above your bunk" as points of interest at the Passage.
Waves as seen from my porthole
Not another silly pose
From left: Lai, Supreet, Sally, Melissa
Photo credit: L - Mary R - Sally
There were 133 guests and 58 crew/staff members on my trip. I would be spending my birthday, Christmas and New Year on board, go kayaking, visit penguin colonies and base stations and to top it all, we would be going pass the Antarctic Circle (most cruises turn back before reaching the Antarctic Circle). 4 other girls who were also travelling on their own - Lai, Melissa, Sally and Supreet - drove me crazy most of the time.

Wildlife

Although the conditions in Antarctica is brutally harsh, it is far from being a barren land. We were excited over our sightings of everything from seal to penguin to whale... As we sailed south, there were a lot of movie screenings and enriching lectures by experts on marine animals, penguins and birds, geology and history of Antarctica. I found that the more we know, the more we do not know.
Talk by ornithologist Frank
who has studied the penguins in Antarctica since 1972
Video: The first seal
Crabeater seal - don't you want to bring one home?
The first penguin
Kelp gull with chicks
Blue-eye shags or Antarctic cormorant
Cormorant bringing seaweed home to build nest
Cape petrels flying alongside our ship at Drake Passage
Leopard seal

Leopard seal
Photo credit: Shaun

My camera + bino combi shot 
does not look too bad huh?
Leopard seals and orcas are top predators in Antarctica. The leopard seals feed on krills, fish, squids and penguins that cross their path. They would thrash the caught penguins back and forth until when they could separate the blubber from skin, harvest the blubber and leave the rest of the carcass to birds. (Source: Guide to marine mammals of the world by Randall Reeves, Brent Stewart, Phillip Clapham, James Powell and illustrated by Pieter Folkens)
3 dolphins enjoying the splash
created by the bow of our ship
Looking at the dolphins
We saw a few minke and humpback whales, both baleen whales that feed on krills. 2 of them came really close to our ship, seemingly checking us out. Pretty much any whale sighting would take precedence over meals, sleeps and lectures. 
A Minke whale appeared next to our zodiac
and kept resurfacing next us
        Video:A humpback going for a dive
      Listen to how the cameras next to me went mad


Antarctic Circle

We crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66°33.44′ S on Christmas. The Antarctic Circle is the northernmost latitude in the Southern Hemisphere at which a 24 hour sun-lit day (or 24-hour darkness) can take place. We would later learn from Alex's lecture that the Antarctic Circle is not a fixed line but a floating one which moves up and down the latitude, depending the position of the earth with reference to the sun. 

More crabeater seals on ice floes
as we move towards
the Antarctic Circle

Captain did a jiggle
when we crossed Antarctic Circle
as Penguin Mark looked on











Midnight, as seen from my porthole
We finally hit sea ice at 66°46.50′ S in Crystal Sound and the captain decided to turn around and let us begin our activities off the ship. 

We finally hit sea ice
Photo credit: Sally


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
















Base stations

Antarctica has no permanent population and is politically covered by 14 articles of the Antarctic Treaty acceded by 50 countries. The Antarctic Treaty was first signed in Washington on December 1959 by the twelve countries whose scientists had been active in and around Antarctica during the International Geophysical Year of 1957-58. The treaty is to ensure "the interest of all mankind that Antarctica shall continue for ever to be used exclusively for peaceful purposes and shall not become the scene or object of international discord." (Source: http://www.ats.aq/index_e.htm)

We visited 3 base stations - Vernadsky (Ukrainian), Port Lockroy (British) and Gonzalez Videla (Chilean).

The Vernadsky Research Base was where ozone depletion was first discovered. Located at Galindez Islands, there were 12 researchers studying on topics such as geomagnetism, meteorology and glaciology. (Source: http://www.antarctida.kiev.ua/english/) 

On a less serious note, this base station has a famous bar where ladies can trade their bras for free top-notch vodka.

Bras at bar
 

Port Lockroy Base A station lies in Wiencke Island and is the home to a museum and a real post office run by United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust. The base station was set up in 1944 during 'Operation Tabarin' to observe wartime enemy activities in and around the Peninsula and the post office was set up to legitimise British presence. (For those who are expecting post cards from me, the post cards had to wait for the next ship departing for Argentina before being sent to the UK and distributed from a UK post office.) Post war, researches on topographic survey, geology, meteorology and botany were conducted. (Source: United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust).  At the time of visit, there were 4 volunteers restoring the base. Apparently, they had to compete with 100 other people, passing interviews and skill tests (such as carpentry) before making it to the team.

Sleighs and Port Lockroy Base A
The museum had a lot of interesting antiques such as barometers and coal burners.
Fit for a FID. Cook book by G Cutland
includes recipes such as Savoury seal heart and Casserole of penguin breasts 

Mr Quaker in his younger days

Restoring a painting on Elizabeth Taylor
Video: Port Lockroy

Waterboat Point was where we stepped on mainland Antarctica for the first time. The Gonzalez Videla base station was established at Waterboat Point as a base for the Chilean military to perform search and rescue. The station is named after the Chilean president who was the first head of state to visit Antarctica. (Source: Antarctica cruising guide by Peter Carey and Craig Franklin) We loved the Chileans for their hospitality and their complimentary red wine and pisco sour. ¡Muchas Gracias! 
Gonzalez Videla base station

Polar Plunge

The polar plunge was one of anticipated events on the ship - it offered one the chance to dip in the sea in some awfully cold weather. Many were enthusiastically discussing when and where the polar plunge would take place, to participate or not and what to wear. We finally had the chance to take the plunge at Pendulum Cove of the Deception Island towards the end of our trip and we made sure we were the first ones to board the zodiac.

All dressed up and ready for our polar plunge
From L: Sally, Melissa, Supreet, Lai

Taking the plunge at 34.7°F (1.5°C)
With Brenda
The steam in the picture was 108°F (42°C), from the volcanic activities in the area. Only the top 1cm of the sea water near the beach was hot. As I walked deeper into the sea, I could feel pins and needles travelling from my feet up my legs. I went in 3.5 times. Twice more to pose for (more) photographs and the 0.5 time was to hold Brenda's hands so she could dip her head into the water and officially finish the plunge. 

74 of the guests completed the polar plunge, breaking M/S Expedition's record. For this, we got an official certification from the doctors, stating categorically we have gone mad and were utterly foolish:

Christmas and New Year

We had hot chocolate with Kahlua, turkeys and log cakes on Christmas. There were also Christmas carols and even a surprise visit by Santa from the North Pole.
Christmas
From left: Sally (my roommate), Doug the Santa, me, Dave the Penguin

Photo credit: Melissa
For New Year, we had a black-and-white themed party with a fancy dress contest and olympics (which include competitions like who could get dressed in a life-saving uit in the shortest time) before the countdown party. 
Warrick with the proud winners of the fancy dress contest - International Penguins
Photo credit: Aaron

Video: Olympics - who could keep a chair spinning for the longest

Source: Melissa

Champagne flowed and flares lit as we sang Auld Lang Syne to welcome the new year.

Rather bright night

          Video: Happy New Year!
New Year flares in lieu of fireworks on M/S Expedition
Source: www.facebook.com/gadventures


A toast to a wonderful new year