Antarctica : Tips and considerations

When to go

Can you tell the clouds from the ice
and the water from the sky?
Photo credit: Sally

In summer! Antarctica's summer takes place from October to March. From late October to November, you will see sea ice and penguins courting and building nest. In December and January, daylight hours are the longest and penguins begin to hatch. You can also see "feeding chase" where chicks run after (any) adults for food. In February and early March, there are the most number of whale sightings.

Does this not remind you of a face in a Picasso?

For further details, you may want to refer to http://iaato.org/frequently-asked-questions#what-is-the-season.

How to go

You can get to Antarctica via air or sea, from New Zealand or South American countries such as Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. 



Source: http://iaato.org/documents/10157/15716/IAATO_Fact+Sheet_2012-13_UPDATE.pdf

The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators ("IAATO") was founded in 1991 to "advocate, promote and practise safe and environmentally responsible private-sector travel to the Antarctic". It has about 54 voluntary tour operators members. To protect the environment, member tour operators coordinate with each other so that not more than one vessel is at a landing site at any one time, with no more than 100 passengers are ashore and maintain a 1:20 guide-to-passenger ratio while ashore. 

(Source:  http://iaato.org/documents/10157/15716/IAATO_Fact+Sheet_2012-13_UPDATE.pdf)

Not all Antarctic tour operators are IAATO members. To support the conservation of the area, you may want to ensure that your tour operator is a member of IAATO. (You can search if a tour operator is a member at http://apps.iaato.org/iaato/directory/)

IAATO also set up guidelines that determine where tour operators can land. The smaller cruise ships which carry less than 200 passengers have a broader range of sites to land. Those that carry more than 500 passengers are more stable in rougher sea conditions but they are not allowed to land in Antarctica. You may therefore want to check the itinerary and if there are landings/landing on the islands only/landing in both continent and islands.

For those who decide to depart from Ushuaia, Argentina, it would take at least 2 flights to get there. Do ensure you arrive plenty of time ahead of the cruise. More than a handful of people on my ship spoke of how it took them 2 days to locate their luggage (which got lost in transit). At least one of us set sail without her luggage (she managed to buy some basic items in Ushuaia). 

What to bring

Super-duper camera(s)

I was very impressed by the number of people with the number of high end cameras, lenses and gadgets on board (a $10,000 lens? totally understandable since most would never come to Antarctica again and it makes sense to get the best pictures from this trip). Someone even brought 5 cameras. I found out that even point and shoot cameras come in 21x zoom nowadays. My camera was really nothing compared to theirs. 

Check out my 8x zoom camera, looking really tiny next to Warrick's (I think his camera was not the biggest on our ship):

My camera vs Warrick's

Small and old as it was, I was happy with the photographs my camera was able to produce. However, from a photography point of view, it was really inspiring to see how and what everyone had captured at the end of each day.

My humpback tail (this is as far as I can zoom in)
I can only see the barnacles and water on the tail when I zoom in further on my computer

Mirza's photograph of the same tail

Bring a sports camera like a GoPro or a waterproof camera if you are going kayaking or camping. We had about 5 GoPro cameras in 11 kayaks and I was really impressed by the video and photograph shots taken with the camera. (There is also a really cool clip of a home-made rocket launched into space filmed on GoPro: http://metro.co.uk/2013/02/06/twelve-year-old-girl-launches-hello-kitty-into-space-3383397/) 

Hard drive or memory card/stick

Bring an external hard drive or memory card of some sort for photograph swapping at the end of the trip. I took about 2,500 photographs and videos in less than 12 days (many were panoramic sequences). Most people I knew took an average of 3,000 to 5,000 photographs (since each gentle touch on a SLR easily produced a number of stills).

Given that everyone took thousands of pictures, most did not bother to sort out photographs for specific people and instead let everyone copy a whole lot of pictures. This meant that I probably received 10,000 photographs even though I only copied from a handful of people. The external hard drive or memory card would come in handy for these photographs.

Antarctica : (A totally irresponsible) Kayaking Survival Guide

Surviving the MASTER

Like Yoda, the Kayak Master is not called a "MASTER" for nothing. He is ruthless and weeds out those without real prior sea kayaking experiences. He announces on the public announcement system that there would be a meeting in the library in 5 minutes but deep down, he would prefer if everyone gathers 5 minutes before he even calls for a meeting. He is swift and paddles so fast that you lose 1 stroke for each of his 8 strokes and will be miles ahead within 5 minutes. He overpromises the number of animals that will come attack you and understates the opportunities of being audiences with front row seats at live performances.

Right Now!

To survive the Master, wear your kayaking gear to bed. Wake up early and loiter around the dining room doors 10 minutes before they are thrown open for breakfast and lunch. Take naps in the library and be on perpetual standby for meetings. Be dressed with paddle in hand in 10 minutes (see - it helps if you go to bed in your kayaking suit), get into the water in 20 minutes and be back on the ship the moment the Master turns his head. Be Hard-Core. Be Alert. Be ready to cut queues and paddle in front of the guys who have been waiting patiently in line to dock their kayaks to go on board. Snooze you lose.

Surviving the fitting

Before you even get near the water, you will have plenty of fitting in to do - suit, paddle and kayak. Finding a suit is easy but getting dressed when there is a swell is another matter altogether - just hang on to the poles and railings. 

Fitting up when you have swells on Drake Passage
Photo credit: Shaun

You will look like Power Rangers in the suits but do not worry - the rest of the passengers on the cruise will love you for being the most colourful models on the water and will keep snapping pictures of you the moment you get into the water until you get out. (Tip: try not to capsize in front of the paparazzi - you will make the daily news headline. You may also want to charge the paparazzi $5 for each photograph taken - you will be likely to make some healthy profit and have enough change to fund your next two $10,000 cruises.)

Megazord transformed!

The kayaks are named after whales and some names are more special than the others. Otherwise, they are the same. Just. Choose. Wisely.

Photo credit: Melissa

Surviving the wait

After the fitting out frenzy, you will go stir crazy waiting for the all important announcement to go for a kayak meeting. After reassuring the Master and yourself (predominantly yourself) that you are ready to go, there is the loooooong wait for everyone to get ready. Rest be assured, by the 6th try, your teammate should have gotten the hang of taking her card key out of her back pocket before putting on her 3-piece suit. 

It takes about 20 minutes to put 11 boats into the water. While waiting, you can ram your kayak into a sheet of ice (It is a skill and not everyone succeeds on the first try - practice makes perfect. Once again, try not to capsize.) and watch the ice melt:

Bubbles slowly being released from ice

You can also while the time away by taking pictures of each other:

Just remember to pretend you are really busy being tourists or the Master will ask you to paddle around in figures of eight to "warm up".

Surviving the elements

There are:

- swells that will overturn your kayak and strong currents that will make your arms hurt

- sea ice which block your way and also trap your kayak:

- cliffs where avalanches can take place:

- glaciers which will topple or have magnetic fields that suck you in:

James and I were mesmerised by the glacier which was calling out to us
Photo credit: Michelle

There is nothing you can do about the swells and strong currents. You have already assured the Master that you have had prior sea kayaking experiencessss and that you are hard-core, remember?

To tackle the problem of thin sea ice, just bash through them. Constant rapid actions of lifting your gluteas maximus and then sitting down will help crush the ice. Sometimes, sea ice will form very quickly all around you. If you find yourself trapped, do remember that you have a weapon of mass destruction - your paddle (which you can also use to bash ferocious wildlife too). Simply follow Melissa's instructions on how to break through the sea ice:

Video: How to paddle through sea ice

Video credit: Melissa

As for avalanches, avoid going through narrow channels or too near the cliffs. Otherwise, before you go to Antarctica, learn how to surf and ride a wave.

Part of the cliff collapsed after we paddled pass and went onshore

It can be quite scary to paddle past a glacier, see how massive it is under the water and imagine how it can easily flip over and take your kayak down at the same time too:

Not a reflection but the bottom of a glacier in the water

Can you see the jagged edges under the water?

The solution? Do not go near the glaciers. If you somehow get sucked into a glacier, avoid looking into the water. 

The glaciers in Antarctica generate extremely strong magnetic fields. If the magnetic fields suck your kayak into a glacier - just let it be. Any resistance is as futile as Frodo Baggins trying to resist wearing his ring. Pray that the Master sees you - he has the power to destroy all magnetic fields and pull you out with his booming "Oi!".

The stronger magnetic waves, the bluer the glacier

Surviving the wildlife

You will be attacked from all angles by sharks, leopard seals, orcas and polar bears which will chomp your kayaks and eat you as snacks (ok I have added the polar bear - there is NO polar bear in Antarctica - but that is beside the point). You will not need to know the capsize drill because if you find yourself in the water, you will experience hypothermia in 1 minute and the orcas will use you to educate their young (on how to play with their food) for the next 5 minutes. 

Sea stars do not bite. Neither no krills.

If you spot penguins, Weddell and Crabeater seals, you are in luck. They only eat krills. Stop paddling some 20 metres before you reach them so as not the scare them. Do not surround them so they have space to escape if they want to.

You will also have to practise a lot of self-restraints and try not to stand up in your kayak to give standing ovations to the potential gold medallists for Olympics unsynchronised swimming and diving.

At least 100 Gentoos trying to synchronise their performance

We should show our sexy feet and tail during synchronised swimming

How to dive with a big splash

Sometimes you will have the unenviable task to witness penguins crashing into each other in mid-air. Please keep the laughter in your belly or you will hurt the penguins' feelings:

Video: Floating near Gentoos at Waterboat Point

Surviving a landing

If you ask your Master if it is possible to do a landing while out kayaking, your Master will give you a professional "it's possible BUT..." disclaimer. 

Our first landing from a kayak
Photo credit: Dave/Mirza

Once you do land, however, you will have to find a way to prevent some loving husbands from presenting your kayak as a gift to their wives:

I huff and I puff 
and I will pull this red hot Ferrari to my honey

Appointing a thermos-flask-wielding bouncer may help:

Mark staring down the guilt-ridden thief
Photo credit: Dave/Mirza

Then, you will have to find your own way to survive the onslaught of too many cute penguins on the super highway.

Penguin super highway

Traffic jam!

A busy crossroad

Do not step on the super highway or you risk getting knocked down by a penguin that takes part in the Formula DRIFT championships, as evidenced here:

Video: Penguin drift

Notice the earlier video shows Melissa's GoPro in the snow. This is her perspective of how dangerous the drifting can be. You have been warned!

Video: Penguin Pusher GoPro

Source: Melissa

Surviving the hill

Climb every mountain

Sometimes the Master will tell you that it is going to be a boring trip. Do not fall for the trick and be any less alert. If not, you will suddenly find yourself having to cope with both a stressful landing AND climbing a mountain in a skirt.

Remember to wave to the adoring crowd
Photo credit: Aaron

After the exhausting climb, do remember to smile and wave to the adoring crowd below who are either waving hellos or are trying desperately to signal to you that you are standing too close to the edge of a dangerous looking overhanging cliff.

On the hill
Photo credit: Aaron

To get back to your kayak, you have the options to zoom down on your bum, belly or skirt.

Lastly, be prepared to do a triple somersault and finish with a perfect landing.

Photo credit: Michelle

I have survived

"First I was afraid

I was petrified

Keep thinking I could never live

.....

And I'll survive

I will survive (hey hey)"
~ I will survive by Gloria Gaynor

35.5 nautical miles (or 65.7km) later, I am still alive. Jokes aside, if the Antarctica trip were great, the kayaking excursions enhanced it 8 times more and would have easily been the best US$659 birthday present I had ever given myself (or rather, Antarctica and Ian had given to me). I was grinning from ear to ear on each of my 8 kayaking trips - so much so that my cheeks hurt.

Special thanks to kayak masters Ian and Mark, beautiful security Dave, my most dependable partner James and everyone in the team - it has been A BLAST!

Having a whale of a time. OH YEAH!
Photo credit: Dave/Mirza

Now, I just need to beg/steal/borrow for my next kayaking trip in Arctic. Bring it on!

Dedicated to my lovely kayaking team. xo

Video: Antarctica Kayaking Dream
Music: Titanium by David Guetta (feat. Sia)

Photo and video sources: Aaron, Dave, Lai, Melissa, Michelle, Mirza, Shaun

Antarctica : PPP

Penguin Power Prevails (PPP)

Penguins are birds that swim and dive instead of fly. Their wings, which have evolved to become paddle-like flippers, are used in the same way in water as other birds use theirs to fly - they propel themselves through the water like torpedoes by flapping their wings.

I think penguins can fly

While other birds have light, paper thin or hollow bones filled with air chambers that allow them to fly with less weight, penguins have dense bones that allow them to dive easily. They also have webbed feet for steering in water. 

Penguins are black and white for a reason - the colours provide an effective camouflage through countershading. When seen from below, the penguins' white belly merge with the bright water surface while seen from above, the black backs merge with the dark ocean depths, thereby allowing them to hide from predators such as leopard seals and orcas. 

Penguins porpoise - they leap out of water to take a quick breath and quickly dive into the water again. Both porpoising and sudden changes of direction when swimming tend to take predators by surprise, allowing penguins to sometimes escape from their jaws.

Video: Penguins porpoising

The footsteps left by penguins as they porpoise

One of my favourite pictures of a gentoo porpoising
Photo credit: Naz

On land, penguins walk upright, skip, hop and trip over themselves. They remind me of myself. When I walk on snow, I take baby steps, often sinking, losing balance and squealing. Then standing up, I would brush off snow from my pants and look around to see if anyone saw how clumsy I have been.

Video: How I walk on snow

Penguins also toboggan to save energy. They use their flippers and feet to slide their bodies along the ice.

On your belly, get set, GO!

Besides blubber, adult penguins have thick, overlapping feathers that are nearly impenetrable by wind or water. The feathers also trap air to insulate the bodies. Penguins have preen glands at the bottom of their tails that secrete oil used for waterproofing the feathers. They can contort their bodies in amazing ways so as to preen themselves - arranging their feathers to trap air and spreading oil over their feathers:

Preening

Although it is very cold in Antarctica, penguins can overheat. In such circumstances, they ruffle their feathers to break up the layer of insulating air under the feathers. They also hold their flippers up, sometimes flapping, to release heat.

The underside of the flippers are very pink when the penguins are hot

Antarctic penguins nest in colonies on grounds above the snow. The males would bring back stones so as to build nests above the ground. They often make a big display when they add a stone on the nests. Sometimes, they are really naughty and steal from their neighbours. Other times, a female will move about on its nest, accidentally pushing some stones down and benefiting their neighbours with nests below them.

Setting up nests above snow

Video: Steal from thy neighbour

Too greedy - trying to get a rock
which is too big for its beak

When breeding and raising the young, the penguins have to be wary of skuas or snowy sheathbills that stalk in the background. Both feed off penguins and shags as predators, scavengers and thieves. During the penguins' breeding seasons, skuas and snowy sheathbills steal eggs and chicks. Sometimes, the snowy sheathbills would disrupt penguins which are feeding the young, causing them to spill the food on the ground and providing the snowy sheathbills the opportunities to scavenge on the food.

A harmless looking snowy sheathbill strolls by

Skua

Burp

On my Antarctica trip, we managed to see 4 of the 5 Antarctic penguin species (the Emperor penguins live too far south). 

Top L: Macaroni R: Adélie
Bottom L: Chinstrap R: Gentoo 

All staff said they have never ever met anyone who does not like penguins. I am not surprised. The penguins we saw were sooooooooo ADORABLE and were such a laugh (even though they were very serious) that I really wanted to touch one or smuggle one home in my daypack.

Adélie penguin

Adélies with chicks

The Adélie penguins average 58cm and weigh 5kg. They often travel up to 100km to feed and can dive up to 170m or for 6 minutes. They favour sea ice when not breeding.

We saw some Adélie penguin chicks on Petermann Island. The Adélies can lay 2 eggs and incubate for 35 days. The chicks were rather big and fat and had their heads tucked against their parents. At this stage, the chicks have down feathers which do not allow them to go to the seas and look very much like fur balls.

Chinstrap penguin

The Chinstrap penguins are similar in size as the Adélies but weigh less at 3.8kg and dive up to 120m. They like to raise their heads in the air to trumpet their territorial claims and this action is often infectious, causing a racket: 

Video: A noisy Chinstrap colony at Half Moon Island

We saw a few chinstraps every now and then along the way. I was very happy to finally see a colony during our last landing at Half Moon Island. I find them the cutest among the 4 types of penguins. We were fortunate to see some newborns and do I even have to describe how cute they were?

2 newborns

We have a baby!

Chinstrap penguins mating

Gentoo penguin

Among the 4 species of penguins, the Gentoos can dive the deepest at 225m and feed closest to shore. 

Gentoos at Chilean's Gonzalez Videla Base

When they are 3 weeks old, the chicks of the Gentoos are big enough to fend for themselves. They demand such large quantity of food that instead of 1 parent babysitting the chicks, both parents must forage at the same time. The Gentoos are also unusual in that the chicks return to their nesting colony to be fed by their parents for about 3 weeks after fledging.

I have an egg

Leucistic Gentoo
Photo credit: Aaron

Of all the penguins, we saw the Gentoos most often and they were also the most friendly when we were out kayaking. 

On my return trip from Waterboat Point, I also manage to catch sight of the rare leucistic Gentoo going out to sea. Albinism is a genetic mutation that prevents the production of melanin (black pigment) in the body. Leucism, on the other hand, is a genetic mutation that prevents melanin from being deposited normally on feathers, resulting in an exceptional pale coat. (Source: http://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/AboutBirdsand

Feeding/Albinism_Leucism.htm) 

Macaroni penguin

Although there are 11.8 million breeding pairs in the world, less than 10,000 Macaroni penguins breed in Antarctica. The Macaronis lay 2 eggs but the first egg has very little chance to hatch. Firstly, the first egg is 40% smaller than the second. Secondly, incubation does not begin until the second egg has been laid, by which time the embryo of the first egg would be very cold or dead. 

Sleepy head

We saw only 1 Macaroni penguin on our last landing at Half Moon Island. The pasta penguin has been living alone within a Chinstrap colony for the past years. Although the Chinstraps were very noisy, the Macaroni managed to sleep through the din, with its beak tucked between its wing and body. It would raise its head for 2 seconds and then continued to nap again. It was so difficult to catch a glimpse of the Macaroni's face!

Penguin Power Prevails!

Sources: 
Frank S. Todd
Antarctica cruising guide by Peter Carey and Craig Franklin