Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts

Monday, 7 January 2013

基多、利马、圣地亚哥


从加拉巴哥(Galápagos), 我连续到访了三个南美洲国家的首都:厄瓜多尔的基多(Ecuador’s Quito)、秘鲁的利马(Peru’s Lima)和智利的圣地亚哥 (Chile’s Santiago)。 


基多



我在基多逗留了一个星期,主要为的是到巴西的领事馆申请旅游签证。从领事馆跑到两条街之远的银行付款,再回到领事馆时,已经是1点01分. 领事馆一点关门,需要等到周一恢复营业。幸亏我在电梯内遇到了高官,他把我领回领事馆,找了另一名同事为我处理文件。之后,我还需要等上5个工作日才能领取旅游签证。由于我之前已经购买了到利马的机票,这第二位贵人告诉我4个工作日后就能来领取签证。 


在等待的当儿,我参观了地球中央公园 (La Mitad del Mundo)。厄瓜多尔在西班牙语中译为赤道。公园以基多的位置在赤道上为主题,不是很精彩,而且有点偏远。若不是有Keith同行,还给计程车费讨价,真还有一点不值得。




三个首都里,我只选择参观厄瓜多尔画家瓜亚萨敏(Oswaldo Guayasamin)的男人的教堂美术馆(Capilla del Hombre)。这是他生前所创办的美术馆,里面有很多黑暗与悲伤的画作。瓜亚萨敏厄瓜多尔人誉为毕加索第二,我个人觉得有点夸张。其中,我最不认同的是一幅只有灰色的油画。我总是搞不清楚这类画作怎么能被挂在美术馆,一幅类似墙上油漆的画,谁都能“创作”。不是吗? 
Capilla del Hombre
瓜亚萨敏的画作
本源:www.guayasamin.org
我最喜欢的旅游景点是总统府卫兵举行的换岗仪式。总统科雷亚(Rafael Vicente Correa Delgado)每逢周一的十一点,都会到场检阅,向民众挥手。民众挥旗、欢呼、致以热烈的掌声。同一时候,也有摇旗呐喊口号的示威民众。 
总统府


总统科雷亚
影像: 卫兵换岗仪式

利马



我匆匆到利马一游,只因为进出利马飞机场四次却从未进入城市,所以对它稍微有点好奇。有秘鲁人形容利马的一些年轻人为食人鱼(piranha) ,原因是他们会围攻游客,咬着游客身上的“肥肉”不放,抢夺成功后溜走。所幸我没机会遇上食人鱼。 

在利马所见不多,只能说我喜欢利马古城的旧式建筑物,尤其是双层式阳台 。

天主教堂




工匠修复阳台




















圣地亚哥


三个首都中, 圣地亚哥感觉上最安全。我在圣地亚哥的时候,正逢圣诞游行。大街被封锁,禁止车辆通行。卡通人物气球从人群中穿过,要操纵(比如转圈圈)还真不容易。 




我从住家走约30分钟,到都会公园(Parque Metropolitano)再走20分钟才到达圣母像。从山上暸望,圣地亚哥四面环山。听说冬天到山上滑雪,特别方便。



我参观了邮政局里的博物馆。博物馆入门免费,展示了旧时的通讯器材、邮箱和邮票。


邮政局外观
1920年的Ericsson电话


1951年的邮箱








Friday, 30 November 2012

Mossies vs Mossies

I never thought I would dedicate a blog entry to mosquitoes. That was not until when I became under siege during my Choquequirao trek. I was dreading my trip to the Amazon jungle after, knowing that the welcome would be warmer, given the presence rivers and rainforest. Then I thought that since there are people like Natalie (a Dutch whom I met on a plane to Arusha) who research on Malaria, there would be people who love to read about mosquitoes.
I started getting bites on my feet from this point


To be fair I think both mosquitoes and flies bit me in the Andean mountains. What intrigued me was how they have survived the cold and altitude (they were no mosquitoes and flies in Kilimanjaro). They were very active for most part of the day and they were onto my feet the moment I changed into my slippers (no no! I don't think it was the smell).















The Andean bites gave me red nodules with a fang red mark. 
I had about 150 bites in the Andean mountains (50 on each of my arm and 50 on both feet). It has been more than one month since the Choquequirao trip, I now have scabs and the marks are getting dark and it still itches at times.



The Amazon mosquitoes pushed the total tally to 500. No, I was not exaggerating. The mosquitoes in the Amazon were very aggressive. They even bit through my clothes.  I had 9 bites on my left middle finger alone (and it was only because I poked my hands out of my long sleeve shirt to hold my camera in order to take a photograph). So if you were to extrapolate the number of bites, I easily had 500 of them. 

The Amazon mosquito bites were pink bumps which could be easily differentiated from the bite marks of the Andean ones. Most of the Amazon bumps are gone by now.

Fortunately, the Amazon mosquitoes left my face alone most of the time. When I sensed too many mosquitoes, however, I did not take the chance and covered neck and half of my face up too:
Nobody laughed at me when I did this


That was when I wished I had one of those sun caps/ hats with flap at the back - that way, I could avoid having bites on my ears and neck. Seriously, it was very very irritating when the mossies kept buzzing near my ears.

Conclusion from the trips: Mossies love tourists. I am their Chinese take-away.



Prevention

Initially I used the BioZ Natural insect repellant stick. No deet. Either it did not work well or I had not applied enough. In the jungle, everyone took pity of me. Keith sprayed his Boots Repel Tropical Strength 50% deet on me. Jhonatan sprayed his Sawyer's 100% deet on my hands and I wiped them on my clothes. Christian sprayed his Deep Woods Insect Repellant 25% deet and it kept away mosquitoes for 3 hours. 

On the last day of the trip, Miki then taught me to apply lower percentage deet repellant on the body and spray 100% deet insect repellant on the clothes. I will try that next time.

I would also get a spray instead of a stick so that the insect repellant can be applied on the clothes easily.

If I have a specific trip to the jungle next time, I may also try out one of those mosquito repellant clothes and wear lighter coloured clothes instead of heat absorbent dark coloured ones. 

Aftercare

I alternated the use of Elomet mometasone furoate cream (prescribed by the doctor for my sandfly bites previously) and tea tree oil. Both are not anti-itch but are used to treat the bites. They dry up the skin so I had to alternate the usage.

In the jungle, Christian let me try the iodine tree bark. Keith passed me his Caladryl Clear (a spray which contains pramoxine HCI and zinc acetate) which smells like calamine lotion. Miki gave me her AfterBite Itch Eraser (an applicator which contains ammonia and natural oil)

All worked although the best solution came from Nelly, who recommended using lemon on the bites. They did not have lemon in the kitchen and Jhonatan got me a lime instead. It stung but the relief was instantaneous and I did not even have to wake up during the night to apply additional anti-itch solutions.









Thursday, 29 November 2012

Amazing Amazon : Tips and considerations

Exploring

Where to go 

When I was doing research on which part of the Peruvian Amazon to visit, I came across 2 websites which I found useful: 
The websites had some descriptions of the activities available and some names which I could do my research on. 

From there, I wrote to 3 operators, 1 in each of Manu, Puerto Maldonado and Iquitos. Initially I was more inclined towards Manu and Puerto Maldonado because they are near to Cuzco, where I was. In the end, I chose Iquitos because of the timing, cost and positive reviews. 

I am glad I made that choice and would highly recommend my guides Christian and Jhonatan to anyone. 


How to get there 

When making reservations, do ask your lodge/ operator if they have corporate discounts with airlines. Mine does (although I did not use the discount because I was only made aware of it after I have booked my airticket)

Due to the relative inaccessibility of the jungle lodges, companies normally include free airport pickups and drop-offs and all transports (cars and boats) to the lodges. Do ensure these are included in the price.


What to do 

Hammock room
At the lodges where I visited, all of the activities were free (except if we chose to go to a village to shop or drink). There were a lot of activities to choose from (canoeing, hiking, boating, visit native villages, have a session with a native shaman, canopy exploration on ziplines, swimming, fishing) and of various time length (anything from 1 hour walk to 2 days camping). One can go all out and pack everyday with a lot of activities or simply chill out in a hammock at the lodge. 

The schedule board shows where everyone is going
so that everyone is accounted for at the end of the day
If you have special interests in certain wildlife, let your guide know so that they zoom in on those areas. 

Boating are good alternatives if your legs are tired but it does limit what you see (as in, you will only see the wildlife that like/ are by the waterbank). When boating at night, bring your torch. Flash your torchlight around and look out for red spots – they are the eyes of the wildlife (think birds, caiman, frogs etc).
Spotting the gladiator treefrogs in the darkness

What to bring

The usual. A poncho because it can rain any time. Plus your super duper camera lens, super duper binoculars, super duper sun screen and super duper insect repellant. 


Clothes 

My face and neck were sensitive to insect repellant (slight burning sensation when applied from hand). I used a towel to wrap around my neck to absorb my perspiration and protect against the sun and mosquitoes. I thought it would have been great to have one of those sun hats or caps with flaps at the back that covers the neck. 

Avoid wearing dark clothes because dark colours absorb heat and mosquitoes sense heat. If you have one of those mosquito repellant clothes, wear them. If not, spray deet on clothes.

When I was trekking in the jungle one day in a dusty pink top, I was wondering why safari companies ask their customers to wear safari garb when it is not necessary while nobody told me to wear camouflages in the jungle. I think safari garb or greenish/ brownish-toned clothes are good in the jungle because they offer camouflage against the wildlife. No?


Mosquitos

The mosquitoes in the jungle were aggressive. It may not be viable to use 100% deet everyday. Miki taught me to spray 45% deet on the body and 100% deet on the clothes. Apply and reapply regularly. Anti-itch solution and calamine are useful to prevent scratching after been bitten.



Amazing Amazon : Best and worst


Most frequently used words
They were probably "Where?", "Huh?", "What are we looking at?". Most of the time, whatever our guides have found are so camouflaged that we have no idea what they have spotted. Bless Christian and Jhonatan. They must have had a hard time with us.

Gentlest
Dorilla, the woolly monkey. Dorilla was a baby when she was found by staff from our lodge in a market. She and her mother were captured but unfortunately her mother died. Staff from the lodge purchased and later released her to the wild. 
Dorilla has yet to be accepted by other woolly monkey families and currently lives on her own. Staff from the lodge will visit her from time to time. Our guides called out to Dorilla and she jumped into our boat. Her eyes and coat were both soft and shiny. I could feel the strength of Dorilla's limbs when she hung on my arm to reach out for an orange. Yet, she was so gentle when she took the orange from me. I so much wanted to give her a cuddle and bring her home.
Photo credit: Christian
Biggest surprise
When Dorilla urinated on me. Christian captured the priceless moment when she peed and my reaction immediately after:

Most adorable
The sloth moving in slow motion when we first found it. Christian whistled to it and after a while, it lifted its head and right hand in slooooooow motion and then opened its eyes even more sluggishly, as if going "Huh, what is happening?". It reminds me of ET and Yoda.
Photo credit: Christian
Photo credit: Christian

Best find
Definitely Christian for finding the sloth!

Most fascinating
The creatures we saw were fascinating BUT I think Jhonatan beat all of them, hands down. Jhonatan would run for anything that moved and was often on all fours, looking for something that caught his eyes. When a snake slid away from us, he would run for it. Keith laughed at how he would have run in the opposite direction. 
Jhonatan rummaging for something on the forest ground again


Most claustrophobic
In a tree trunk. Keith did not have his rabies shots and I could not let the very enthusiastic Jhonatan down. We duckwalked into a tree trunk, home to common myotis bats:
Can you see the bats?
It was fine except that when the bats flew away from us, the echo produced by the flapping of the wings felt like the sound of propellers turning right next to my ears. It did not help that there was a tailess whip scorpion spider and army ants in the picture.
Photo credit: Jhonatan
Tailess whip scorpion spider which Jhonatan kept wanting to catch
while I kept saying nonononono
Bat baring its fangs

Best catch

Everyone, except me, fished very well and kept getting big trouts and barracudas on the line. Someone even caught an electric eel (which has since become the coolest eel in the lake as it has been released with a fishing hook piercing - well nobody wanted to touch the electric eel and could only cut the fish line) but I did not see that catch so it does not count.


So, the winner of the best catch goes to Manuel who speared an armoured catfish at night.

Armoured catfish
Thick sucker-like mouth
We were camping and had barbecued fish for breakfast.
Our catch from the previous night
From top: barracuda, armoured catfish, trout 


I had to ask Christian how to eat the fish. Its skin was really a shell and we had to break the fish into pieces and dig the meat out.


Scariest

I cannot decide on the winner. The front runners for the scariest things I did in the jungle would be:
1. going on the canopy zipline 45m above ground
2. going on a swing
3. swimming in the river (with piranhas and Pepe the dangerous caiman lurking in the background)
Christian threw me an empty container for just in case
(just in case I need a weapon to hit Pepe?)

Loudest scream
The loudest scream would have come from me on the swing (Keith said he heard me from his room). "A swing?" I hear you say. Well, to my defence, it was not an ordinary swing. It was a swing hanging from a tree some 30m from the ground. When I first saw it, I thought whoever swing hard enough could probably do a Tarzan and dive into the river from height too. I saw Matthäus and Britta having so much fun on the swing, I thought I should give it a go too.
Matthäus giving a demo and Britta looking tiny on the swing
Matthäus said whomever heard me would probably thought I did a bungy jump. Everyone who saw me had a good laugh. I think the video is funny too (embarrassing but funny).


Video: Swinging

Most elusive
I knew beforehand that I would have next to no chance to see a jaguar so it was not too disappointing not to see one.
Scratch mark of a jaguar
The bald red-faced Uakari monkey was another matter. We trekked for almost 10 hours but did not see one. It was really disappointing since Rose had seen them in groups of 30 - 100. This is how it looks like:
Source: www.perujungle.com
Bravest
Rose, who is planning to stay at the river for 18 months (or however long it requires) to do her research on the red-faced monkey. She will be away from her family in the USA, cannot take Malaria pills, cannot apply insect repellant, will not have telephone reception and hot shower, have to trek for hours to find her monkeys (if she finds them at all)... Much as I love my stay in the jungle, I do not think I can live here for this long. And she has already lost weight! My hats off to you, Rose and Good Luck!
Rose
Sweetest
The cakes. We had cakes on special occasions (such as Lanie and Chris's wedding anniversary) and farewell dinners. Keith, John, Miki, Anne Marie and I were leaving the next day. I protested that Matthäus and Britta had "Come back soon" on their cake and Christian had to add the words to ours too. ;p
Last night at the lodge
Rose, Keith, Jhonatan, Nataly, Christian, John, Miki, Anne Marie