Badia

I had 10 days to kill before arriving in Venice. I looked for somewhere to stop in between Nice and Venice and narrowed down to Lake Como and the Dolomites. Lake Como is expensive, probably touristy and I was not sure how to spend 10 days there. 

With the Dolomites, I checked tour operators and trekking operators and finally decided to engage local guides. I wrote to 2 guides and Alberto (http://www.albertodegiuli.com/) replied with some ideas. I further researched on his suggestions and decided to place my faith in him. Once we have determined that I would be based in Badia, I began to plan my trip. 

It was another semi-epic journey - I first took an overnight Russian (!) train from Nice to Verona. (The train starts from Paris, goes to Berlin and ends in Moscow.) 

The seats fold into a bed:

I had Lady Luck on my side. The room that normally sleeps 3 was only occupied by me. I saved on hotel and slept not too badly.

We reached Verona at 4am. I panicked a bit because my connecting train was due to depart at 5.52am but the ticket office was not opened. (I sat with a group of random people outside the locked lobby. Eventually the lobby was opened to the public at 5am and I managed to print my tickets at the self-service ticket machines.)

From Verona, I took a train to Bolzano and then transferred to another train to Brunico. From Brunico, I took a bus to Badia. My bus is supposed to stop at the Brunico train station but my bus number was not displayed. I asked around but because nobody was sure if the bus would stop at the train station, I walked to the bus station instead. 

17 hours later, I reached Hotel Ustaria Posta in Badia, Italy.

A: Nice --> B: Verona --> C: Bolzano --> D: Brunico --> E: Badia

Badia

(Source: http://www.visitdolomites.com/en/dolomites)

I stayed in the the heart of the Dolomites, in Alta Badia, and specifically the village of Badia. Alta Badia is made up of 3 municipalities – La Val, Corvara (with the towns of Corvara and Colfosco) and Badia (with the towns of La Villa, San Cassiano and Badia). (Source: http://www.altabadia.org/en-US/alta_badia_valley.html)

Alta Badia used to belong to Tyrol, which was part of Austria from 1813. Its history since then can be summarised as follows:

1915: A secret treaty between Italy and the Allies promised Italy the southern part of Tyrol (which Alta Badia is part of) as a reward for entering the First World War on their side (Treaty of London). Italy accordingly swapped sides and declared war on Austria-Hungary and took over South Tyrol.

1922: Benito Mussolini became prime minister, the Fascists rose to power and the government began a systematic programme of Italianising South Tyrol. 

1943: Fascist regime collapsed and South Tyrol was occupied by the Germans. 

1945: Allies occupied South Tyrol in World War II. During the peace negotiations following the Second World War a request for South Tyrol to be returned to Austria was rejected.

1956 - not sure when: Civil unrests against the Italian government.

1959: The sovereign state of Austria issue was brought before the UN General Assembly. The Austrian and Italian foreign ministers tabled a resolution. 

1961: The same issue was brought before the UN General Assembly again. A commission drew up an autonomy package. The South Tyrolean Regional Government was granted jurisdiction over many spheres which would normally be regulated by the state - transport, public works, social affairs etc. 

1972: The second autonomy statute came into force, placing public health and safety, commerce, trade and road building under the control of the South Tyrolean Regional Government. 

(Source: http://www.suedtirol.info/en/)

[I became curious about Badia's history in part because Alberto explained some of it, in part because I was curious of Ladin being spoken in the region and lastly because it is linked to the history of First World War in the region.]

The locals in Alta Badia speak Ladin, which originated from Rhaeto-Romanic, a language that goes back to the Roman Empire. It is based on Latin and is thus similar to languages such as French. As a result of Alta Badia's history, half of the subjects are taught in Italian in school and the other half in German. The students also have to learn Ladin. (Source: http://www.altabadia.org/en-US) Italian, German and Ladin are official languages for the area and road signs have all 3 languages. 

Ladin, German, Italian

Except when ordering my gelato (for which I am very fluent in Italian), I mostly spoke English, while keeping the locals amused with my Ladin.

Hotel Ustaria Posta

I stayed in Hotel Ustaria Posta (http://www.ustariaposta.it) in Badia for 1 week. Alberto had given me some suggestions and I chose Ustaria Posta after doing some researches. The hotel is run by the Tavella family and it seems to be a meeting place for everyone - the Tavella family members, locals, cyclists, mountain guides, tourists... One can find the workers standing at the bar, having their expresso and chatting to the owners early in the morning. In the afternoon and evenings, there are people playing card games in the Stüa (Ladin word for living room). 

This is not surprising, given the hospitality of the family and the long history of the hotel in the area. Ustaria Posta began as the hotel, post office and bakery of the village. Signore Eduard, the current hotel owner, is the founder of Maratona dles Dolomites (a 175km annual cycling marathon through the Dolomites). His son, Igor, rides competitively and also operates Holimites (http://www.holimites.com), a tour operator for the region. Signora Nina runs the restaurant like a tight ship and makes the best tiramisu in town. The family is too nice. I did not know how to address Igor's parents and called them 'Papa' and 'Mama' and nobody corrected me. Hahahaha!

Signora Nina, Igor, Signore Eduard

I think a lot of effort has been spent to make everyone feel at home - from staff to decoration to food. They have so many orchids that remind me of home. Old photographs occupy the walls and there are just too many funny pictures of Igor (I think he is in love with himself  ;p). 

Poor Mama Nina had to do laundry

I had a huge debate with Igor if this was digitally edited
- he always has this cheeky huge grin
& I can never tell if he is pulling my leg

My Italian/Ladin combo did not work -
I still received a big slab of steak for dinner 

My room was big and clean and I had an awesome view of pines, dolomites and the beautiful blue sky. Dinner was always wonderful and HUGE in portion. On the first night, I was already worrying about putting on weight.

I read in another website that this person liked the hotel so much that he asked to be adopted. I asked to come back to work as a waitress. Igor said I have to pass a test on Ladin. Booooo....

View from room

My first day in Escalona

Escalona

Province: Huesca (of Aragon, Spain)

Population: 220

Altitude: 610m

(Source: Ayuntamiento de Huesca)

Quick recap 

I was in Escalona because the helpful lady at Huesca's Tourism Office suggested that the adventure companies based in Escalona would be a better bet to fetch me to hiking. I had met Jon, the only English speaking taxi driver in Aínsa and he has sent me to Escalona.

Juanjo and Raquel

The lady at Huesca's Tourism Office had given me a list of 4 names and I picked the first one that does trekking - Solomonte (http://www.solomonte.com) (thank goodness they are the first name!). [Note also, I heard that a better website will be coming up in the later part of June 2012]

Jon had stopped in front of the Solomonte office and I was chatting to him (he gave me his contact number in case I need a ride around town or whatever and I was paying him) when the door to Solomonte closed! Jon stopped the Solomonte staff (Juanjo) and told him I need assistance. Juanjo said to give him 1 minute and went upstairs. Down came a girl (Raquel).

I bade farewell to Jon and Raquel led me to the Solomote office. She told me in ENGLISH that she was the one who spoke to the lady from Huesca. Imagine my relief! (I can say 'Voy a la Sestrales' but I am not sure if I can carry the rest of the conversation in Spanish and not get confused.) I showed her the route on my iPhone and she pointed it out immediately on her real scaled map. Yes! Another point for Racquel.

Raquel said she could bring me to the Sestrales. We agreed on the route, the price, the timing for the next day (to start at 8am) and what to bring. We also agreed that it is better for me to stay in Escalona (another relief, since I am not keen to take a 4th transport for the day).

Raquel suggested that after I have had some rests, I could rent a bicycle from her and cycle around to Aínsa (great views) or I could walk up the hill across the road (easy and great views too). 

Raquel, outside the Solomonte office

Juanjo

Javier, Pili, Monica and Hotel Arnal

There were several lodging options in Escalona. I chose Hotel Arnal (http://www.hotelarnal.com) because it looks simple and homely from outside and it is just next door to Solomonte's office (again, I attribute this to sheer luck because for the next 1 week, I had a home). Raquel thought I would need assistance and brought me to the hotel. She told a bearded gentlemen (whom I will know as Javier) that I would need a room for 3 nights (Yes, I initially only planned for 3 days so that I can have the third day for R&R) and food for picnic (the only supermarket in Escalona is closed every Wednesday and I had arrived on a Wednesday). Meanwhile, Javier's daughter, Monica, came into the picture and took over the English-Spanish translation. Raquel left and I checked into Hotel Arnal.

Pili and Javier, at the hotel lobby

Monica

I loved my room. The room was very big and clean. I had a queen-sized bed, plenty of drawers, a table, a big wardrobe and a television. There was a big bathtub (loved it in the subsequent days) and a hairdryer! Pity I do not have any decent pictures. (I think the pictures on its website does not do it justice either. It is much newer, prettier and homely than the pictures on the website.)

Right. I have messed up the bed already

The windows opened up to a vegetable garden, hills, mountains and highway A-138.

My room is on the first floor on this side of the building

I had a yummy lunch prepared by Pili, Javier's wife, at 3pm:

Real food

View during lunch

It was too hot to go out. As Javier told me it will take 1 hour to walk up the hill in front of the hotel, I waited till 5pm.

Hill in front of hotel. Target: Houses on top of hill

The starting point of the walk (Muro de Bellós) was a mere 2 minutes from the door of the hotel and took me an hour to ascend. (Very slow walk, lots of photo-taking. aragonesasi.com says the altitude is 955m). The walk, like what Raquel had told me, was very very easy. 

I had no idea where Escalona was and I was only aware of a lot of potted pretty flowers in the hotel. The views from the hotel room and restaurant were great but I honestly did not expect that this was surrounding me:

View from top of Muro de Bellós or What is REALLY behind my hotel 

What awaits me tomorrow?

Living in Barcelona

I cannot remember why I have always wanted to visit Spain. Whatever the reason(s) was/were, I think I have made a great choice to begin my round the world (rtw) trip with Barcelona as the first destination. I have 2 things in my favour – the 1992 Barcelona Olympics Games and Raphaella.

Barcelona has a good transport network and is surprisingly easy to get around with in English. I think we have the Olympics Games to thank for these. Nearly 40% of the investments related to the 1992 Barcelona Olympics Games was spent to improve and expand roads and transport networks. The introduction of the city to the world through the Olympics Games also meant more opportunities/ incentives for the locals to learn and use English. 

As for Raphaella, I found her through Airbnb. Although her apartment looks centrally located from the map, I had chosen to stay at Raphaella's mainly because she is an Australian who has travelled widely – both of which, I thought I can relate to. I am glad I made the correct decision to stay at hers as she (and her apartment) turns out to be the gem I need. (Check out her apartment and my review at http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/414727).

I was Barcelona from 9 - 19 May, which was quite short a timeframe, given that this was my first trip to Barcelona and that a typical day was divided into 3s for me. I learnt Spanish at a Spanish language school in the mornings. In the afternoons, I was a tourist. Most evenings and nights, I led a 'normal' life – bought grocery, prepared dinner, revised Spanish, went for yoga class or a drink with Raphaella...

This slideshow documents the non-touristy parts of my time in Barcelona (double click to view):

Living in Barcelona

Before arriving in Barcelona, I had worried about pickpockets and that I do not understand Spanish. In Barcelona, there are announcements in some metro stations such as the Sagrada Familia station which warned about pickpockets and there are Spanish who do not speak/ understand English. As with any other place on earth, one just needs to be careful with his belongings to deter the pickpockets. I was fortunate not to have any issues in Barcelona.

In situations where the Spanish counterpart does not speak/ understand English, so long the question is not too technical (such as 'Could you tell me the differences between the various SIM cards?' ) and that both parties are willing,

1. try communicate in whatever limited knowledge one has in the other person's language (it breaks down barriers and does reduce some uncertainties)
2. use the simplest phrases in your own language slowly as some words do sound the same in European languages (eg. telephone vs teléfono)
3. play a game of charade, 

and most simple things can be resolved. 

I went into a shop in my neighbourhood to get a bottle of nail strengthener. I should have checked what it is called in Spanish but was silly enough not to. The saleslady could not understand what I wanted so I pointed to my nails and did the action of applying nail polish. She nodded and showed me the different nail polish colours that she has. I said 'No colour', pointed to my nail and then did the front double bicep pose to show that I am strong. That was the light bulb moment for her and a €4 'nail endurecedora' for me.

The front double bicep pose that got me my nail strengthener

Things I love about Barcelona:

1. Hills and the Balearic Sea right at one's doorstep. Pity I can only post the pictures but not the sweet fragrance of the flowers and the pines and the non-stop chattering of the birds in the hills. 
2. Fascinating architecture (Lluis Domènech i Montaner, Antoni Gaudí i Cornet, Frank Gehry, Richard Meier) and artworks (Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró i Ferrà)
3. Tapas bar - cheap cheap good good. ¿5 pintxos + 1 zurito por €6? Me me me! I am in!
4. Clean streets. Credits must be given to the cleaners whose dustpans look like Neverfull.

Things I need to get used to (the first 2 points will apply to the whole of Spain I think):

1. Lunch at 2pm and dinner at 10pm (is this not the surest way to get a tummy???). I arrived at a cafe at 1.50pm and it was barely occupied. At 2.10pm, the cafe was packed. Unlike restaurants that close for a break at 3pm back home, it is not unusual to have lunch at 3 or 4pm in Barcelona. Consequently, dinner normally starts after 8pm.
2. Supermarkets being closed on Sunday. 
3. Quirkiness of trains stations – which ones to insert ticket into gate on the left and which ones on the right (I think mostly on the right); which ones require tickets to be inserted at the exit point and which ones do not (I think mostly not required).

I thought I could move to Barcelona to live and work here but let's see how Madrid fares.