Galápagos : Isla Genovesa

We sailed north overnight to Genovesa Island, one of the most isolated islands in Galápagos. The island is home to a large number of seabirds and the biggest colony of red-footed boobies. We had the enviable task of trying to identify the abundant species of birds and selecting which of the birds to our left, our right, above our heads and next to our feet to observe. 

We headed out at 7am to Darwin's Bay for a 1.5km trek on coral sand and slabs of lava. A juvenile sea lion was curled up on the beach when we arrived:

Juvenile sea lion

Galapagos doves were searching for food while the juvenile swallow-tailed gulls were whining very loudly for more food.

Galápagos dove

Swallow-tailed gulls 
L: juvenile R: adult

Adult with very conspicuous fleshy red eye rim
and white tip on bill

From the beach, a path led us through the colonies of red-footed boobies and we quickly learnt that in the case of birds, the infants can look different from the juveniles which also differ from the adults. The females and males of the same species could also look different. 

Red-footed booby

Infant red-footed booby snuggled against mummy

An awkward looking juvenile red-footed booby
which is losing its white feather

We had to keep at least 2 feet from the wildlife but the birds just stopped next to our path:

Sari with juvenile Great frigatebird

Sometimes, the curiosity of the birds got the better of them:

Is this food?

The trail led us to lava rocks and a small lagoon, where we saw more birds such as herons: 

Not far away, next to a cliff, juvenile frigatebirds learnt to fly:

On cliff at Genovesa Island
Photo credit: Martha

After the walk, we went snorkelling at Darwin's Bay. This was my first snorkelling attempt and given my 'love' for water, I was really tensed. It was nothing I had imagined snorkelling to be - I was given a life vest over my full wetsuit and a bodyguard in the form of Captain José. We slipped into the water from our dinghies and the water was not as shallow (it was at least 3m - help!) and calm as I thought it would be. The water was clear, not too cold and there were fishes everywhere. It was a really beautiful sight - colourful fishes in green water. There were cortez rainbow wrasse, moorish idol, blue chin parrotfish, Meyer's butterfly fish...

Sharks
Photo credit: Sari

Whitetip reef shark
Photo credit: Sari

Blue chin parrotfish
Photo credit: Sari

Photo credit: Sari

When Martha have assessed that we could snorkel independently, she moved us to the deeper waters next to the cliffs. The life vest was not comfortable to swim in but I supposed it gave Captain the assurance that I would be fine even if I struggled. After the snorkel, everyone was excited and supportive and told me not to have too much expectations from future snorkels because I have been spoilt.

After lunch, some of us went kayaking along the cliffs while others snoozed.

In the afternoon, we set off in the dinghies to observe the cliffs. 

The yellow-crowned night-herons hid in the nooks while marine iguanas and crabs scaled the cliffs. The cactus finches hopped about the prickly pear cacti. Birds flew above our heads.

Sea lion and yellow-crowned night-heron

The poor sea lion has a deep scar across its right eye and face

We landed on natural rockfalls, named the Prince Philips' Steps (the Duke visited in 1965) and made our way up to colonies of red-footed boobies and Nazca boobies.

Prince Philips' Steps

Red-footed booby

It was the breeding season for Nazca boobies when we visited Genovesa Island and we observed their mating routines:

2 eggs were laid each time, with the stronger chick killing the weaker one when they hatch - the cruel truth of "the strongest survive".  

Video: Nazca booby nesting while hatching eggs

We also saw the short-eared owl which also testified to Darwin's revolution theory. Due to the lack of predators in the Genovesa Island, the short-eared owl no longer had to feed nocturnally and is active during the day.

Short-eared owl

We left the island as the sun began to set.