Wednesday 15 August 2012

Lyon

Let me out of Kenya!

I was at the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Kenya. Security staff #1 was not happy with my answer to her question "why are you travelling for so long?" (to which I answered "because I need a break from work") and that I had no printed itinerary on my rtw trip. She went on to ask a bunch of questions for 10 minutes, checked my passport against some guidelines she had and then told me she need to check with her supervisor. 

10 minutes later, Security supervisor appeared and asked me the some more questions, checked my passport, got my name card from work and then told me to wait while he a made a phone call.  Security supervisor spoke for a long time and then passed me his cell phone to speak to someone in UK. The guy in UK asked me another bunch of questions including 'what is the name of Singapore's airport' and then asked to speak to Security supervisor again. Security supervisor spoke on the cell phone for a few more minutes and disappeared into his office for a long time.

Security supervisor finally came back, checked my passport and then told me I would have to stay in Nairobi for the night and go to the Singapore embassy to seek clearance the next day. Security staff #2 began to grin. (I am not sure if she knew he is playing a joke on me or if she was just finding this episode too funny. In any case, there is no Singapore embassy in Kenya. The nearest embassy is in South Africa.) 

I asked for internet connection so that I could show the Security supervisor my rtw itinerary and he told me it would be very expensive and cost US$100. (Again, not sure if it was a joke or if this is a hint for money because Security Staff #2 is still grinning.) Security supervisor then led me to the check-in counter where I checked in my luggage and then escorted me to the customs, which I cleared. Along the way, Security supervisor kept saying things like "I thought you said you are here to help people?" (which I did not) and "I am helping you, you know?". Security supervisor finally told me about how he worked at an orphanage and he "need help, you know?". By then, we reached the gates of my flight and to shut him up, I gave him the smallest denomination of US$ I had - US$20 (sob!). He finally left me alone and I hurriedly squeezed into a non-existent queue to get onto the plane (in case he came back for me again). I can only hope he genuinely worked in an orphanage. Sigh!

Lyon

From Kenya, I transited in Amsterdam, flew into Paris and finally reached Lyon after 16.5 hours. I like Lyon because it is clean, feels save and not intimidating and it was not too hot in the middle of July. It has a good mix of new and old and I love it how the people I met were very friendly. Bonus points for not too many crowds or cars and for the cycling lanes around the city.



Lyon is the second largest city of France. During the renaissance period, Lyon's geographical position made it an essential stopover for merchants coming from Italy and Northern Europe. Italian bankers settled there, attracted by the prosperity of the silk industry, as did foreign drapers and haberdashers. The banking business enjoyed such a boom that the first French Stock Exchange was created in Lyons in 1506. (Source: http://www.en.lyon-france.com)
The Italians also left their influence in the architecture in Vieux Lyon, Lyon's old town centre - arch windows, decorative motifs and the orange tones on the walls of many old buildings.
Traboule de la Tour Rose
There are also 300 or so traboules in Vieux Lyon and are mostly opened to the public. Historically, the houses in the old Lyon city were built in long rows parallel to each other. To get from one row to another, one either has to go to the end of a very long street or use one of the traboules (secret passageways) to move from one building to another. The traboules sometimes link more than 2 buildings. Although not as long and maze-like as the catacombs of Paris, the traboules played important roles during World War II when people used them to escape raids. 

The Rhône and Saône Rivers run through Lyon city and and beautiful trees and buildings line the rivers. Currently, work are done in phases to create boulevards, parks and recreational facilities along the river:


permets m'amour penser quelque folie

Have to go back and ask my teacher
what instrument this is.  It's like a 扬琴

Bouchons


Bouchon is Lyonnaise cuisine which originates from house cooks for Lyon's rich and affluent families. It is my kind of food - simple, home cooked and fatty. During the second half of the 19th century, many cooks set up their own businesses.

I went to Le Poêlon d'Or twice. They are not on the official list of bouchons but mère Marie-Danielle who hung up her apron after 30 years, had passed her family's culinary secrets to the new owner, Yann. Yann is a great host and one feels right at home. It does not hurt that Chef Lorini's food is brilliant. He cleverly balances the entrée and dessert with the admittedly heavy Lyonnaise food for summer.  It is a pity I could not have more meals there as they close on weekends and my stay in Lyon was cut short




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