Ordesa-Monte Perdido National Park: Sestrales Alto

You cannot imagine how difficult it was to write this entry (and I imagine, the next few). Raquel, the walking encyclopaedia, taught me so much about history, geography, flora and fauna in English, Spanish and Latin that I fear I would write something really slipslop and do her injustice. She is an excellent teacher and I am a lousy pupil.

Well, 丑媳妇总要见公婆。Here goes my most sincere attempt:

THE day has arrived － to go to Sestrales Alto in Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido (Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park). I had not slept well (too worried that I will oversleep and that Javier will forget my food). My tummy was bloated. I had dressed too warmly and had to run back to my room to change into tshirt and shorts. I was nervous.

It was, however, a scenic drive to the national park. We passed by picturesque villages (including Bestué), snow-peaked mountains, glaciers and rivers. Along the way, Raquel shared information and stories about them.

We arrived at Collado Plana Canal (1700m) and the target was Sestrales Alto (2101m).

Before we started, Raquel briefed me on the number to call (112) should there be an emergency and where her mobile phone and car keys were kept in case I need to get help. Javier had packed too much food for me. He probably thought I was undernourished or that I was really going for an idyllic picnic. He prepared 2 huge bocadillos (1 cheese and tomato and 1 egg), an orange, a snack and 1 bottle of water. Raquel said to take only what I need.

I had trekking poles, water and food, binoculars, sun block and warm clothes for just in case. Raquel pointed to where we were heading (we could already see the destination from the carpark). It did not look too difficult – just up and down 3 peaks. Off we went. We did not walk too far before we were greeted by falcons gliding in the sky. 

King in the sky

The dirt track that leads to Collado Plana Canal and the vulture in flight 

Along the way, we heard some squeaks. I thought they were birds. Raquel said they were marmotas alpina (English: alphine marmot, Scientific: marmota marmota). 

Can you tell that these 2 flowers are from the same family?

We ascended slowly. Along the way, we examined the different flora (what is edible, which has medicinal values, what is poisonous) and looked out for fauna. Raquel may not know all names in English but she certainly knew most names in both Spanish and Latin (and sometimes, I could guess the English names from the Spanish/ Latin names). Latin??? She said it is her interest. She was a chemist by training and worked in the pharmaceutical field. Her first love is the mountains and decided to make the switch 6 years ago. She said, as part of the accreditation for mountain guides, one would need to know some basics on flora and fauna. Obviously, she had read up much more. I told Raquel she is just like my mum. When I go for walks with my mum, we would look at the plants and she would tell me the same (well, not the latin names, but what can be eaten and what is medicine).


It was not exactly easy to spot or identify the fauna - they were either in very swift motion or motionless and camouflaged. (Raquel would identify expertly and I would be thinking, "Huh? How could you tell?") Sometimes, the predator in flight would cast a shadow on the ground and prompted us to look up. Can you imagine how amazing it was?

Can you see the bird sunbathing?

Raquel told me how the vast majority of the area (15,608 hectares) was only recently made a national park in 1982. (Only a small part of it was made a national park in 1918. In 1997, it was made a UNESCO World Heritage.) Prior to that, agriculture was allowed. The farmers would burn down trees and the farmed animals would eat away the grass. Consequently some of the hills are bare and we could still see steps in the hills nearby. Till this day, private hunting in the national park is still permitted in some areas (we passed by the signage that indicated the end of the area). 

Stepped slopes, a result of agriculture

Unsurprisingly, the route to Sestrale Altro was covered by only grass, rocks and thistle bushes. 

Thistles

Thistle bushes

We met 2 French who came from the French side of the Pyrenees

The weather was great. It was not too hot in the third week of May but the sun was very strong (no trees = n respite). Raquel said she was surprised I had asked to go to the Sestrales as not too many people know about it. Indeed we saw 5 souls only.

Very soon, we reached our second mini-peak and had both Sestrales Alto and Sestrales Bajo in sight.

Sestrale Alto in the foreground

When we reached Sestrales Alto, I did not lie on my belly on the table-top peak to check out what was below (how scary would that be?). We had lunch on Sestrales Alto, right in front of the Valle de Añisclo:

The view did not disappoint right?

As we had lunch, Raquel described how the river had run through the valley millions of years ago to give its form. We could see the lush trees in the valley against the cold limestones and sandstones that rose above. In the background, there were snow-capped peaks.

Tomato and cheese bocadillo for lunch. Thanks Javier!

A peek through the binoculars

Then Raquel brought out her books(!!!) and maps to reinforce what we saw and where we were. (No wonder she had a bigger bag than mine.)

It was also a lucky day for Raquel too as she saw a ladybird for the first time. It was orange and had a black head and white spots (instead of the usual 7-spot ladybird with red wings with black spots).

The learning did not stop at the end of the walk. At the carpark, we saw big stones with seashell-like attachments on its surface, a proof that it was of sea origin:

As we drove out, we also saw the carnivorous grasilla o atrapamoscas (Eng: long-leaved butterworts or flycatchers, Sci: pinguicula longifolia). Raquel touched the leaf with her finger, put her thumb on the finger and separated her thumb and finger to show me how sticky the mucilage was. (I would have thought that it was an ordinary orchid). [The plant grows in nitrogen poor soil and tops up its nutrients with small insects that it traps on its leaves. The enzymes that line the leaves digest the prey caught within 72 hours.]

Insects stuck on the leaves

Was I impressed!

A satisfied customer - MOI!