Dolomiti

Dolomites

Marmolada, seen from Costoratta ski lift

The Dolomites in Italy is an area famous for its spectacular dolomite stones (or dolostones) formations. Dolostones are mainly produced by the secondary alteration or replacement of limestones; i.e., the mineral dolomite [CaMg(CO₃)₂] replaces the calcite and aragonite minerals in limestones during diagenesis. (Source: http://www.britannica.com)

The area comprises a mountain range in the northern Italian Alps, with 18 peaks which rise to above 3,000 metres and cover 141,903 ha. 9 areas were inscribed into UNESCO's World Heritage List in 2009 (first nominated by Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner in 1992) for their geomorphological and geological significances.*

The 9 areas are:
1. Pelmo - Croda da lago

2. Marmolada
3. Pale di San Martino - San Lucano - Dolomiti Bellunesi - Vette Feltrine
4. Dolomiti Friulane
5. Dolomiti Settentrionali
6. Puez-Odle – Geisler – Odles
7. Sciliar – Catinaccio – Rosengarten – Latemar
8. Rio delle Foglie
9. Dolomiti di Brenta*

The Dolomites are of international significance for geomorphology and is the classic site for the study of the development of mountains in dolomitic limestone. The area presents a varied landforms related to erosion, tectonism and glaciation. The 9 areas are marked by spectacular vertical forms such as pinnacles, spires and towers and some of the highest vertical rock walls in the world, with contrasting horizontal surfaces including ledges, crags and plateaux.* 

The Dolomites in Italy were coral reefs that formed in the subtropical ocean during the Paleozoic Era. (Source: http://www.visitdolomites.com/en).  Geologically, the Mesozoic carbonate platforms, or “fossilized atolls”, provide evidence of the evolution of the bio-constructors after the Permian/Triassic boundary and preserves the relationships between the reefs they constructed and their surrounding basins.* 
*Source: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1237/

Historically, the Lagazuoi Cinque Torri area in Dolomites was also an important witness to the First World War, where fierce and bitter battles were fought between Austria-Hungary and Italy. Today, what is left are the museums, restored tunnels, trenches, machine gun posts and the aftermath of the battles.

Casunziei all'ampezzana - bellissimo!
(Beetroort ravioli with poppy seed and butter sauce)

For food-lovers like me, the Dolomites also boasts fantastic food. The visitdolomites website says the cuisine of the Dolomites as "born 'poor', originally included only a few dishes and featured recipes that were simple, yet offered unique flavours". Thanks to Hotel Ustaria Posta and the next person I am going to introduce, I have had the best meals all week, even at the huts. 

Alberto

In my previous blog entry, I briefly wrote about researching for what to do in the Dolomites and whom with. One website led to another and I finally found some contacts for local mountain guides. After doing some researches, I wrote to 2 and by some stroke of luck, ended up engaging Alberto because the timing and plans worked out right.

Alberto is a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide based in Arabba (http://www.albertodegiuli.com). Other than mountaineering and skiing, he knows the language, culture, geology, history, geography and places for good food inside out. He is passionate about his work but not pushy and I learnt a lot over 7 days. It really pays to support the locals!

Alberto is very patient but does not suffer fools, especially lousy drivers and those put themselves into precarious positions. If he gestures for you to move your car, please do so - do not imagine you are driving a bus, there is always plenty of space, just MOVE. Young as he looks, if he calls to you and tells you that you are on the wrong track, please just keep quiet and MOOOOVE - do not give some stupid excuses like 'my map says so'. Both annoy the hell out of him and he will start speaking like an Italian (otherwise, he speaks really good English).

Via ferrata

Cables, pegs and rungs

Via ferrata is the Italian for "iron way" and is a system of cables, pegs, rungs and ladders that are fixed to the vertical walls of the Dolomites. The first vie ferrate were used in the Dolomites for transporting troops and equipment during the First World War. Now they are maintained by the municipal or guides and allow aerial access to the summits for tourists and climbers alike.

I was in the Dolomites in the last week of August and the weather was beautiful (albeit too hot for me). I managed to miss some of the summer crowd but still got stuck in some massive traffic jams on the mountains. Alberto recommends to visit the Dolomites in the first 2 weeks of September to do the via ferrata, when the weather is still great and the crowd has gone back to work and school.

Richard

Richard, an Australian, had signed up to do 4 vie ferrate with Alberto. As he lives in New Zealand, he had to travel for 40 hours (!!) to reach Italy. He is a patient and great trekking partner. He gave me enough space and also gave me pointers along the way when I needed them.

Richard and Alberto

My programme 

When I wrote to Alberto, I had no idea what I what is the best for me. Alberto suggested a combination of vie ferrate and long hikes. 

The exodus website has put under their trip information - "No previous climbing or Via Ferrata experience is required. Experience of high-level mountain walking and a head for heights are necessary, as often there are exposed sections. There are steep ups and downs on gravel or rocky terrain and the average ascents/descents per day are around 800m. Some Via Ferrata sections lead up/down vertical rock faces, which require good upper body and arm strength. At this level, you need complete confidence in your physical condition, ability to deal with heights and difficult underfoot terrain such as scree, snow or difficult paths on steep mountainsides." 

I have no confidence in my fitness nor my non-existent appreciation for heights but I thought I should still give it a shot. Alberto and I agreed that I will join Richard on his first via ferreta. I could then see if I can cope with the heights, cables and ladders and Richard's pace. Alberto could also judge and plan a programme for me based on what I can do. 

Eventually, we would joke about how I would write a review that says "if you want a pee-in-your-pants experience, wear your diapers and sign up for the via ferrata with Alberto".